RIGOUR & WHIMSY

Costa made his first wine in 2016. Inspired by a bottle of Radikon tasted in Paris in 2011, he fermented organically farmed Pinot Blanc on the skins for several months before extended élevage in barrel. The goal was to make something he wanted to drink - at this point, Amber Wines were a rarity in the Okanagan.

Their goal from the beginning was to challenge the status quo. Pretense, dogma, and exclusivity have no place in the wine industry, but creativity, quality, and transparency certainly do. They are inspired by wines that straddle the worlds of Fine Wine and Natural Wine (Saillard, Foillard, Gravner, Lapierre). They chase technical perfection and emotiveness in tandem.

He acquired a plot of land right next to Storm Haven Vineyard just outside Okanagan Falls. Encouraged by their illustrious neighbour, they were confident the site would eventually yield fabulous wines. Planted in 2018, these Gamay Noir and Chenin Blanc vines were set to produce their first vintage in 2020. They h also signed a long-term lease with Sarah Allen, the owner of God’s Mountain Vineyard. This own-rooted site perched above Skaha Lake needs some serious rehabilitation, but the mature Syrah and Gewurztraminer vines promise to deliver incredible wines in the near future. (tragically, since writing this, they lost the lease)

As their story progresses, they plan on introducing livestock, helping close the ecological loop. They are also looking forward to helping the next generation succeed in the wine industry, paying forward the generous support they’ve received from the blossoming independent wine community in the Okanagan.

In the vineyard, Costa employs a wide variety of ethical farming techniques to improve their soils. From Fukuoka-inspired no-till farming to biodynamic teas, they’ve opted for a holistic approach. By studying their soil food web, they hope to pursue regenerative agriculture, leading to increased soil biodiversity. Sustainability and wine quality aren’t mutually exclusive.

Costa is a minimalist in the winery. His wines are wild fermented, not for philosophical reasons but because, in his experience, it yields complexity. All wines go through ambient malolactic conversion. They harvest based on acidity and flavour instead of sugar, which typically negates the need for adjustments and adjuncts. Fortunately, he’s not dogmatic, and if a wine needs saving, he’s willing to rescue it.

Red grapes are usually fermented whole-cluster to promote semi-carbonic maceration. White grapes are usually destemmed and fermented on skins. In some cases, extended post-fermentation macerations are also used. The wines usually undergo long élevage in either barrel or tank to clarify and stabilize them without the use of fining agents or filtration. Judicious SO2 use at bottling helps with stability, consistency, and longevity.

In 2002, while working at a restaurant in New Brunswick, Costa had his first professional introduction to wine. Their sommelier tried to instil some knowledge, and, like so many burgeoning wine enthusiasts, Costa discovered the wines of Burgundy. Years later, after moving to the Okanagan, he had a particularly memorable dinner. Some of the pairings were transcendent (Chardonnay & Scallops, for instance). This meal and his newfound proximity to vineyards lead to the vinous obsession so many of us are familiar with.

Costa registered for WSET. He became so enthralled that he began working at a wine store on his days off from the Healthcare Technologies industry. His friends and family constantly asked when he was going to finally pursue wine professionally.

In the fall of 2015, he was presented with the opportunity to make cider, but at the last minute, these plans fell through. Costa was more disappointed than he anticipated; upon reflection, he knew he had to find a way to make wine. Knowing the move had to be lateral, they decided to open their own winery, an ambitious goal. With the tutelage of local legends, they were able to make their first wine in 2016.