CRAVEN WINES

The Cape Wine Festival is a spectacle. Hundreds of South Africa’s best wineries come out to show off their wares to thousands of local and international trade members. Despite the commotion, Mick Craven nearly jumped over a table to hug me. At well over six feet tall I have to admit he gives a damn good embrace. A day later I met his wife Jeanine, and she walked me through their new vintage - the drought was challenging, but the wines are pristine.

This year (2019), Mick and Jeanine have made the hard philosophical decision to work exclusively with organic farmers in Stellenbosch. This meant they had to give up their beloved Faure vineyard because the owners refused not to spray systemic herbicides. With such extreme drought conditions, farmers are justifiably worried about weeds consuming what little rain they receive. The Craven’s prefer working with farmers that understand that a well-chosen cover crop will actually improve water retention, provide much-needed nitrogen, prevent the proliferation of moisture sucking weeds, and ultimately negate the use of chemical herbicides.

A few days later we saw this in full effect at their Cinsault vineyard. Fava beans Mick had planted a month ago were nearly as tall as I was. It had been raining on and off for a week and every vigneron we met looked incredibly relieved. The drought has caused serious imbalances in the vines leading to soaring pH levels and challenging ferments. Mick has had to harvest extremely early to maintain balance, yet their wines still show shocking ripeness and complexity. That being said, the 2019 vintage is already looking promising and might even yield a bumper crop.

Mick’s winemaking philosophy seems to revolve around texture. He ferments his Pinot Gris on the skins which result in a buoyant, bouncy, texture. His Chenin Blanc (aged on full lees) is creamier and waxier with some of the chew you’d find in really good sourdough. When it comes to reds, the soils and climates seem to shine through before the fruit. The Firs Syrah evokes its red clay soils and warm climate, while the Cinsault is more marine, transparent and exposed. Ultimately, the use of whole clusters, delicate extraction, low alcohol, and neutral oak élevage all allow the vineyards Mick respects so much to be the stars.

Whether it’s coffee, meat pies, or wine, Mick and Jeanine won’t settle for anything less than the best. They are both so honest, energetic, and enthusiastic; it’s hard not to get riled up talking to them. In addition to terroir derived aromas and flavours, there is definitely a little bit of their coy, playful, yet thoughtful charisma in each glass.