CANTINA MARILINA
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Angelo Paternò, the patriarch of Cantina Marilina, worked for decades at large commercial wineries on Italy’s southern island, Sicily. He eventually saved up enough to purchase a 60-hectare organic farm in the province of Siracusa. The shining white calcareous soils and gentle slope told him this was amongst the best sites he’d ever seen, the ideal location to build a life with his family.
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Since the creation of the estate, he has handed control over to his two ambitious daughters, Marilina and Federica. Together they have implemented aspects of permaculture to ensure the soils are healthy for generations. Just over half their land is planted to vines; the other half is left wild or used for mixed farming to increase biodiversity and economic diversity.
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They’ve decided to keep their practices as traditional as possible. 80% of their vineyards are planted to indigenous grape varieties, many of which have evolved over hundreds of years to withstand the relentless sunshine and drought conditions. Their wines almost exclusively ferment in large concrete tanks that help prevent temperature fluctuations and allow the gentle integration of oxygen. Their maceration times are quite long, which helps extract dense flavours and ample structure.
Marilina had confessed that she seldom worked in the vineyard when she began, focusing almost exclusively on winemaking. As time moved on, she recognized the importance of working with the farmers and pickers, eating lunch shoulder to shoulder, and using her position as a female entrepreneur to encourage the team. Woman-led wineries are certainly not the norm in Southern Italy, but there’s a much-needed cultural shift starting to even out the playing field.
MORE WOMAN-LED WINERIES: CLAIRE NAUDIN | DORMILONA | ECHO BAY
CURRIVU ROSSO
This wine is made from a blend of Nero d’Avola and Merlot grown on their property near Noto. The middle-aged vines are deeply rooted in brilliantly white calcareous soils, which helps retain acidity even in extreme heat. The grapes are destemmed and fermented on skins for just over a week before being pressed off into concrete tank. The wine is lightly filtered for large sediment. 12.5% ABV
BLACK FIG, ROASTED PLUM, ETHIOPIAN COFFEE, LEATHER, DATES, LIQUORICE ROOT, CLOVE, DRIED ROSE, STURDY TANNINS, OXIDATIVE AND SAVOURY
CURRIVU BIANCO
This wine is made from Viognier and Chardonnay, grown in the commune of San Lorenzo on white calcareous soils. Although they typically work with indigenous varieties, they couldn't bring themselves to rip out these properly mature vines when they acquired the farm. The grapes are destemmed and crushed into concrete for a few days of maceration. After fermentation, the wine rests for six months before light filtration and bottling. 12% ABV
CHAMOMILE, YELLOW PLUM, TOASTED NUTS, SUNSHINE, GENTLY ORANGE, GORGEOUS TEXTURE, BREEZY
2024 SKETTA
This wine is made from Grecanico grown on white calcareous soils <500m from the ocean. They’ve been making this cuvée for 20 years, making this one of the first modern orange wines produced in Sicily. The grapes are destemmed and fermented on skins in concrete tank for up to a week before being pressed off. After a six-month élevage on fine lees in concrete, the wine is racked and bottled. 12% ABV
ORANGE BLOSSOM, KEY LIME, LEMON VERBENA, HONEYSUCKLE, NECTARINE, QUININE, PISTACHIO, SALINE, TANGY
2024 SUAVE
This wine is made from Nero d'Avola grown on calcareous soils near the coast in south-east Sicily near Noto. The grapes were destemmed and left on skins for a couple of hours before being pressed into concrete for fermentation. After six months on fine lees, the wine is lightly filtered and bottled with a modest amount of SO2. 12% ABV
WHITE STRAWBERRY, ROSE HIP, HIMALAYAN SALT, NECTARINE, GRAPEFRUIT PEEL, SUPER DELICATE AND SALINE
2022 CUÉ MOSCATO
This wine is made from Moscato. The grapes are macerated on skins for a short time before being pressed off into concrete tank for fermentation and élevage. The wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered after five months on lees.
FEDELIE BIANCO
This wine is made from Moscato. The grapes are direct pressed into concrete tank for fermentation. After the wine is fully dry and has settled for several months it is racked to bottle. A small amount of unfermented must is added for secondary fermentation in bottle resulting is a lightly pétillant wine. The wine was not fined or filtered.
FEDELIE ROSATO
This wine is made from Nero d’Avola. The grapes are direct pressed into concrete tank for fermentation. After the wine is fully dry and has settled for several months it is racked to bottle. A small amount of unfermented must is added for secondary fermentation in bottle resulting is a lightly pétillant wine. The wine was not fined or filtered.