GRAPE REPUBLIC

In March 2018, I went to work the harvest at Kindeli in Nelson, New Zealand. While there, I met Haruyuki Yano, a young Japanese wine enthusiast trying to transition from the restaurant industry to viti and viniculture. He was as dedicated, focused, and detail-oriented as he was charming and goofy, the ideal harvest accomplice. When we reached out to Grape Republic three years later, I never expected to have him responding to my emails; serendipity at its most poignant! Haru is now performing dual duties of winemaking and management. Despite their minuscule production, our old friendship facilitated a new partnership.

In 2015, Kazuomi Fujimaki moved 350km north to Yamagata Prefecture from his long-time home in Tokyo. After spending his youth in the military, opening six successful Italian restaurants in Tokyo, Yokohama, and Osaka, and becoming a well-respected sommelier and advocate for natural wine, it was time to take the next step. Transitioning to farming and winemaking at fifty is a brave feat, but his exuberance and dedication compelled him to try.

Their winery was completed in 2017 in Nan’yo. The city has been in steady decline for the past fifty years, with over ten thousand residents (25%) leaving for larger urban centres. Despite its fame for the Chrysanthemum Festival, Kumano-Taisha Shrine, and the hot springs, many are opting out of agriculture. Kazuomi has adopted many abandoned vineyards, hoping to inspire a new generation to return to the land via his captivating, terroir-driven wines. He foresees a day when dozens of vignerons will work side-by-side, elevating the region to the level of prestige it is capable of. Hence the name Grape Republic – it’s a goal, not just a moniker.

The region is mostly between 200-450m above sea level, surrounded on three sides by mountains, far enough from the ocean to be considered a continental climate. These factors lead to massive diurnal swings, a variable that helps grapes retain their acidity. By Japanese standards, Yamagata is slightly less humid, which makes organic agriculture a fraction more manageable. The soils drain well and are often comprised of granite and schist.

 The majority of grapes grown in this region are hybrids – crossings of Vitis Vinifera (European grape vines) and varieties from North America. Most were created for culinary applications, favouring large, uniform berries, delicate flavours, lower sugar levels, thinner skins, little to no seeds, and softer acids for the ideal eating experience. They tend to be more resistant to Japan’s humidity and easily adapt to alternative training systems like overhead pergolas. The flavour profile of these grapes is entirely new for many consumers, making them as shocking as they are delicious.

Japan’s lack of a robust appellation system is a double-edged sword for Kazuomi. It leaves the door open for questionable practices like adulteration and fraud but also allows for experimentation and exploration. Nearly every European appellation has outlawed hybrid grapes, a near-sighted and limiting approach that upholds a colonial and euro-centric rubric for quality.

The winery itself features a legion of Spanish amphorae. Kazuomi believes the micro-oxygenation that occurs in these vessels during fermentation is ideal for producing clean and complex wines. Most wines are then aged in stainless steel, but there are a few exceptions to this rule. Most vessels are topped with CO2 to prevent fungal growth, producing clean wines across the board. Their entire production is made from organic grapes (4ha of which they farm themselves) and is released without SO2. This has been their mantra since day one, and despite its obvious challenges, they stay as dedicated as ever.

Steuben: This hybrid of Vitis Vinifera and Vitis Labrusca was first created in 1925 at Cornell in New York but didn’t make its commercial debut until the 1940s. The vine is incredibly productive and overcropping (dilute grapes) can be problematic if yields aren’t controlled. It is resistant to most vineyard blights like mildew and has extreme cold-hardiness (-29ºC).

Niagara: This Concord offspring was bred in 1866 in western New York. It displays the often overstated ‘foxy’ characteristic typical of American hybrids. The berries grow in large bunches where their thin skins make them particularly susceptible to rot and mildew. The vines are somewhat resistant to cold, but it’s a wonder this variety has been so prolific.

Delaware: The origins of this variety are shrouded in mystery, but the most told story traces its roots back to a Swiss immigrant fleeing persecution in Europe, smuggling grape vines from Burgundy, and crossing them with local varieties in Frenchtown in Delaware County, Ohio. Until it undergoes DNA profiling, we can only guess. This finicky variety has small pink berries that ripen early. Unlike many of its hybrid brethren, it has low yields, low foxiness, and is susceptible to phylloxera.

Muscat Bailey A: This grape was developed in Japan by Zenbei Kawakami in 1927. It is ideally suited to Japan’s humidity thanks to its natural resistance to powdery mildew, downy mildew, and botrytis. It’s thin red skins, large grapes, and distinctive candied aroma make in an ideal candidate for light red wines.