CRAVEN WINES
CAPE WINE FESTIVAL
The Cape Wine Festival is a spectacle. Hundreds of South Africa’s best wineries come out to show off their wares to thousands of local and international trade members. Despite the commotion, Mick Craven nearly jumped over a table to hug me. At well over six feet tall I have to admit he gives a damn good embrace. A day later I met his wife Jeanine, and she walked me through their new vintage - the drought was challenging, but the wines are pristine.
COMMITMENT TO ORGANICS
This year (2019), Mick and Jeanine have made the hard philosophical decision to work exclusively with organic farmers in Stellenbosch. This meant they had to give up their beloved Faure vineyard because the owners refused not to spray systemic herbicides. With such extreme drought conditions, farmers are justifiably worried about weeds consuming what little rain they receive. The Craven’s prefer working with farmers that understand that a well-chosen cover crop will actually improve water retention, provide much-needed nitrogen, prevent the proliferation of moisture sucking weeds, and ultimately negate the use of chemical herbicides.
A few days later we saw this in full effect at their Cinsault vineyard. Fava beans Mick had planted a month ago were nearly as tall as I was. It had been raining on and off for a week and every vigneron we met looked incredibly relieved. The drought has caused serious imbalances in the vines leading to soaring pH levels and challenging ferments. Mick has had to harvest extremely early to maintain balance, yet their wines still show shocking ripeness and complexity. That being said, the 2019 vintage is already looking promising and might even yield a bumper crop.
MINIMALIST WINEMAKING
Mick’s winemaking philosophy seems to revolve around texture. He ferments his Pinot Gris on the skins which result in a buoyant, bouncy, texture. His Chenin Blanc (aged on full lees) is creamier and waxier with some of the chew you’d find in really good sourdough. When it comes to reds, the soils and climates seem to shine through before the fruit. The Firs Syrah evokes its red clay soils and warm climate, while the Cinsault is more marine, transparent and exposed. Ultimately, the use of whole clusters, delicate extraction, low alcohol, and neutral oak élevage all allow the vineyards Mick respects so much to be the stars.
Whether it’s coffee, meat pies, or wine, Mick and Jeanine won’t settle for anything less than the best. They are both so honest, energetic, and enthusiastic; it’s hard not to get riled up talking to them. In addition to terroir derived aromas and flavours, there is definitely a little bit of their coy, playful, yet thoughtful charisma in each glass.
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2022 CABERNET SAUVIGNON
After spending ample time in Sonoma with legends like Pax Mahle and Scott Schultz, Mick has been desperate to make old-school Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes for this project come from Karibib vineyard, 300m above sea level in western Stellenbosch. The twenty two year old vines are rooted in decomposed granite with a touch of clay which helps with water retention. Cool breezes off of False Bay delay ripening and keep alcohol levels low. To build tannin and capture fruitiness, the grapes were fermented two-thirds whole cluster in stainless steel. After seven days the wine is pressed off before fully dry. It is aged for a year in neutral 300L barrels before a light filtration and bottling with judicious SO2. 292 cases were produced. 12.5% ABV, 3.65 pH, 5.4 g/L TA
2022 CHENIN BLANC
The grapes from this vineyard were historically sold off to Distell, the prestigious creator of Two Oceans. Fortunately, when the son of the previous owner took over, he opened up sales to smaller producers instead. Despite this history, the 41-year-old radial-bush-vines were never chemically farmed. The east-facing site features typical granitic soils. The grapes are whole-cluster pressed into concrete where the must slowly ferments for months. After additional lees ageing and racking, the wine is bottled. Only 333 cases were produced. 13% ABV, 3.3 pH, 6 g/L TA, 45 ppm SO2
2022 PINOT GRIS
Pinot Gris is not widely planted in Stellenbosch making this a relative rarity. These young vines (2007) are planted on an interesting sedimentary rock, cemented into a duricrust by iron oxides. Locally this red soil is called Koffieklip or Coffee Stone. These are usually the first grapes to come into the winery in early January. Their first vintage of this wine was made exclusively for personal consumption, but fortunately, they have expanded. The grapes were destemmed and fermented in concrete on skins for six days with occasional pump-overs and punch-downs. The wine is then pressed off into neutral barrel for élevage. 12.05% ABV, 3.66 pH, 5.2 g/L TA, 40ppm SO2
2022 CINSAULT
Rustenhof, a site in the coastal Faure district of Stellenbosch, is farmed by Pieter Bredell. I’ve never seen a site quite this healthy; their cover crops of radishes (to break up the soil introducing oxygen and relieving compaction) and fava beans (natural nitrogen fixers) were thriving. It is planted on sandy granite so close to the ocean you can feel the salty breeze. These bush vines are dry-farmed and tend to yield grapes with higher acid than their previous vineyard. They destem the grapes to help preserve acidity. The pump-over or punch-down twice a day during fermentation and then pressed off to concrete for élevage. 750 cases were produced. 12% ABV, 3.5 pH, 5.5 g/L TA, 40 ppm SO2
ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE: $38.00 (AB), $45.00 (BC)
CSPC: 828151 (AB), 355950 (BC)
2022 chardonnay
The newest member of the Craven family comes from Blue Gum Grove Vineyard in Stellenbosch’s Polkadraai Hills. This eastern portion of the region has more influence from False Bay, making it slightly cooler. Planted in granite and sand in 2005, this site is farmed by Danie Carinus. The grapes are whole-bunch pressed to tank where the juice settles overnight. It’s then racked into neutral puncheon for fermentation and élevage. Only 250 cases produced. 11.5% ABV, 3.35 pH, 6.1 TA, 45 ppm SO2
ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE: $40.00 (AB), $47.00 (BC)
CSPC: 801321 (AB), 355961 (BC)
2022 FIRS SYRAH
The Cravens found this site in the Devon Valley, planted on richer red clay instead of the traditional granite. The vines are really vigorous but because of the warmer sub-climate, they feel like they’ve achieved balance. At twenty years old, these vines are really coming into their own. Whole-clusters are gently foot-tread several times per day during fermentation, trying not to disturb too many of the bunches. After ten days the wine is pressed off into old puncheon for a ten-month élevage. 13.1% ABV, 3.65 pH, 5 TA
