A SUNDAY IN AUGUST - BROC CELLARS - CRAVEN WINES - LA CLARINE FARM - DIRTY & ROWDY - DON / KINDELI - FORLORN HOPE - FRANZ WENINGER - GUT OGGAU - KEENAN THRUSSELL - LE GRAPPIN - LES LUNES - LAURENT SAILLARD - LIGHTNING ROCK - MEINKLANG - MILAN NESTAREC - PETER WETZER - PIERRE OLIVIER BONHOMME - POPULIS - REVEL CIDER - TESTALONGA - RIGOUR & WHIMSY - SWICK WINES - STIRM WINE CO. - WEINGUT STROHMEIER - WEINGUT WALLDORF
Michael Schindler is crafting some of the Okanagan’s most delicious and intriguing wines. This little valley in British Columbia, Canada, is the perfect place to grow healthy, organic grapes, yet most farmers opt for unnecessary sprays and treatments. Not only that, but in their quest for monster flavours and ripeness, most of the wines from the Okanagan are egregiously manipulated. Fortunately, Michael is working with what nature gives him instead of against it. Freshness, purity, texture; everything we love about this young region.
Chris Brockway is the owner and winemaker at Broc Cellars. His ultimate goal is to work with organically or biodynamically farmed fruit from vineyards in unexplored or forgotten Californian appellations. He isn’t shy about using heritage or unorthodox grapes. His winemaking practices are minimal, often avoiding sulphur right until bottling and letting everything ferment via natural yeasts.
Mick and Jeanine are producing elegant wines in Stellenbosch, South Africa. They are challenging preconceived notions of ripeness, and are championing underrated grape varieties like Cinsault and Clairette Blanche. Single vineyards are the norm across their range; their wines are as much conveyers of time and place as they are delicious beverages.
Before we started importing Dirty & Rowdy, I would wait patiently for the bi-annual email from the winery, purchase what I could, and would drive down to Montana to pick up my loot. The wines were so confounding I could hardly contain my joy and confusion. They were unapologetically Californian, yet low in alcohol, and had all the drinkability I craved. Read On...
I got off the plane in Nelson (a modestly sized town at the northern tip of New Zealand’s South Island) after a two-hour flight from Auckland. Alex Craighead, the winemaker and proprietor of Kindeli, picked me up. I was to spend the next two weeks working with him, learning his philosophy and techniques. As is the norm, we headed straight out to the vineyards.
After a quick dip into Marlborough to see some Sauvignon Blanc being grown for a client of his, we headed to the Upper Moutere where their winery and home vineyard is. The site is planted on Moutere Series Clay and features Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. They farm organically and opt for using sulphur, seaweed, compost, bat guano, and copper (only when absolutely necessary) to maintain the health of their vines. Between the rows you’ll find a stand of local trees, a small creek, and plenty of wild cover-crops. Plants like clover help restore nitrogen to the soil. Read On...
Matthew Rorick, owner and winemaker at Forlorn Hope, jumps headlong into the unknown as often as the opportunity arises. His mantra seems to be giving a voice to the misfit grapes and regions of California. When it comes to wine making he is decidedly minimalistic. All his wines are fermented using native yeast. Additives like enzymes, acid or tannin are not necessary and therefore avoided. The wines are only aged in neutral containers, including a sixty gallon vessel from the nineties. Sulphur is added in small doses either before bottling or after fermentation.
Franz Weninger (Jr.) is incredibly dedicated to the land he farms. His father understood the importance of organic farming and revitalizing local grape varieties, but Franz has taken it to the next level by converting the entire estate to biodynamics and replanting many sites to the appropriate traditional grape varieties: Blaufrankisch and Furmint. Despite his conviction, he refuses to pull out his father’s old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah – as long as Franz Sr. is alive, the vines will remain.
Their location at the southern end of the Neusiedlersee in Burgenland permitted them to purchase land across the border in Hungary. The Sopron region was once part of Burgenland and contains some of their favorite sites. Franz took over this part of the estate early in his career after graduating from Klosterneuburg and travelling the world on internships. In 2011, he took over production on the Austrian side of the boarder as well and has really fine-tuned the winemaking.
On the western side of the Neusiedlersee in Burgenland you’ll find the quaint town of Oggau. As we drove in from the north, the rolling hills funnelling down towards the lake were dotted with perfectly angled vineyards, tucked amongst the forests and wildlands. We arrived at Gut Oggau’s heuriger (a traditional Austrian eatery that serves cold food and local wine) and were immediately surrounded by friendly faces, guzzling glass after glass with vigour and cheer. Read On...
After years as a chef in New York, Laurent Saillard fell in love with the places his produce was grown. This honest connection to the land, coupled with his enthusiasm for Natural Wines and holistic farming inspired him to move to the Loire Valley, where he started a miniscule domaine. He began working with Noella Morantin and Junko Arai, renting a tiny plot of vines and room in their cellars to make his own project on his days off.
His first vintage was in 2012 and since then he has sold almost all his wine to his restaurant friends in New York (In particular Wildair, Contra, Four Horsemen). He has since doubled his vineyard holdings (now 6ha) yet still works the vines by hand all by himself.
There are few things we like as much as well-made Burgundy. Fortunately our friend Andrew Nielsen is crafting some of the finest examples we’ve ever come across. From wild and gregarious Beaujolais, to elegant and mineral Beaune Chardonnays, he really has a handle on the dozens of micro-plots he’s working with. Despite being born in Australia and living in the UK, he has a true connection to the land, opting for ethically farmed vines instead of their chemically farmed neighbours. He’s also not afraid of unsung appellations within Burgundy, often showing the nobility of what many consider second class sites. Aligoté anyone?
I met Shaunt and Diego in November 2016 at the Raw Wine Fair in Brooklyn. After days of tasting and drinking and ingesting, my palate was getting a little exhausted. You can only taste so many wines with overt volatile acidity before you spiral into a natural wine depression, and crave mass produced Californian Chardonnay. Then I tasted the wines from Les Lunes and felt re-inspired and refreshed. Read On...
With throbbing heads and bleary eyes, we drive up to Meinklang’s gorgeous little winery. It is nestled into the back streets of a small town in Burgenland. The esthetic is half Austrian efficiency, half Japanese wabi-sabi. Nikolas approaches us beaming and we jump in his car and head towards their farm. Read On...
Milan Nestarec is barely into adulthood, yet is making some of the most captivating wines in eastern Europe. He is a second generation winemaker and a proud member of the Autentisté group, a collective of Czech winemakers dedicated to holistic farming and producing wines with minimal additives. Milan studied under Aleš Kristančič of Movia and learned the art of skin fermented white wines.
His vineyards are located in Moravský Žižkov and Velké Bílovice, 15km north of the Austrian border in the Czech Republic. 8ha are farmed organically and herbicides are avoided entirely. Vine density is roughly 5000/ha. There are a dozen or so varieties planted here which gives them plenty of room to experiment and come up with new and wonderful cuvées.
The fact that Peter Wetzer makes any wine at all is a little astonishing. Firstly, he is located in Sopron, a small region on Hungary’s boarder with Austria. His absolutely tiny cellar (if you can even call it that) is in the basement of his family house, in a suburb; shockingly, it’s more complete than his newly obtained cellar, several stories under a house built in the 1700s that looked more like a demolition zone than a winery.
Pierre Olivier Bonhomme’s history is inseparable from that of the legendary Clos du Tue-Boeuf, a Domaine located in Touraine. Thierry Puzelat, the visionary at the helm of the estate, sought to diversify his project twenty years ago. In addition to opening a wine bar featuring unadulterated renditions of Loire Valley wines, he began a small négociant business to help support local organic grape growers, and stabilize his production size in bad years. As the project grew, he took on a twenty-something cellar worker to help him: Puzelat-Bonhomme was born.
I met up with Tariq, the mastermind behind Revel Cider, and his accomplice Stephen earlier this year while visiting Toronto. After a quick curbside introduction, we wandered down the street to Bellwoods Brewery where we proceeded to drink excessively. In fact, our lunch time drinking session went so well we were nearly an hour late for our dinner reservations. Needless to say, I could barely stop myself from guzzling their supremely complex, textural ciders. We chatted about fermentation dynamics, the quest to find rare apple trees scattered around Ontario, and how Tariq’s Muslim parents feel about him producing alcohol professionally. Read on…
Swartland is an intimidating region. Nearly flat wheat and canola fields are punctuated by massive rocky outcroppings. These ancient mountains look as though they may crumble before your eyes. There’s something surreal about the landscape - more than anywhere else I’ve ever visited, it looks like someone may have dreamt it up and then built it by hand. To the west, there is the rugged Atlantic coastline. Frigid waved crash relentlessly. On the region’s north-eastern border, a wall of mountains towers above the surrounding plains. Nestled into this range you’ll find Banditskloof, a small farm planted by Craig and Carla Hawkins.
As you drive down the red dirt road to their home and winery, you can’t help but feel you’ve reached the end of the earth. Small farming communities are their only neighbours - Carla drives to a town two hours away to do groceries nearly every week. When they first purchased the property, it was half derelict farm, half wildland. Angsty baboons and leopards live on the peaks above their home. They had to start from scratch. Read on…
Ryan Stirm is a true Riesling fanatic. His arguments for why Riesling works so well in California are hard to refute after tasting his wines. He started his winemaking career in the US, teaming up with the now legendary Justin Willett from Tyler and Lieu Dit. After four years, he ended up working in the Wachau, Austria where he fell further in love with Riesling as well as Grüner Veltliner.
His winemaking philosophy is quite simple. They whole cluster press everything, allow for short periods of skin contact, avoid SO2 until fermentation has completed, let indigenous yeast do their jobs, and fine/filter as minimally as possible. The ultimate goal is to let the vineyards shine through.
Joe Swick is a young, 5th generation Oregonian trying to bottle the most unadulterated visions of the Pacific Northwest he can. He started off as a cellar hand at Owen Roe but has travelled extensively since then, working in Tasmania, Portugal, and Piemonte to name a few. In nine years he worked 15 harvests, after which he started his own project.
The focus is on organic, biodynamic, and sustainably farmed vineyards in the Pacific North West. This means he is working with fruit from both Oregon and Washington including the up-and-coming Columbia Valley Gorge.
It was the second day of the Raw Wine Festival. I had tasted roughly four hundred wines in 48-hours. My gums were swollen, my tongue was sore, my teeth panged, and despite spitting every sip, my head was heavy. The room was packed with every famous sommelier I had ever read about, as well as Action Bronson and Aziz Ansari. We were there to taste the best natural wines on the planet. Sadly, many of them underwhelmed.
I got to the last table, sensing the end was finally near. I forced myself in between a handful of people and raised my glass, asking Franz Strohmeier if I could taste his wines. He poured me a white and I swirled and sniffed. The room went silent. Read More…
Max Dexheimer was born the same year the Probstey Vineyard was replanted: 1992. A mere quarter century old, and he’s already producing some of the most captivating wines in the Rheinhessen. He originally learned winemaking and grape growing from his Father, but to further develop his skills he supplemented his schooling by working harvests in places like Austria and New Zealand.
In 2012 he started Weingut Walldorf by leasing small parcels from his parents all around Saulheim. He converted the vineyards to organics and uses certain biodynamic preparations as well (stinging nettle and horsetail tea for instance). The vineyards haven’t been fertilized in ten years now to help restore them to their natural balance.